Hey brides, bridesmaids and partygoers! Madsam Tinzin is stateside this weekend. Visit their pop-up shop this weekend from February 6th – 7th in San Francisco and Los Angeles.
The silhouettes are a blend of contemporary styles with traditional twists. The selection ranges from light trousseau, quirky (dhoti/kurti) looks for a fun evening, sarees paired with sexy cholis, flared skirts with hand embroidered tops to dramatic shararas.
The collection is a mix of beautiful lightweight fabrics ranging from silk organzas, silk dupions and silk georgettes. The color palette draws upon subtle hues of peaches and blues along with deep traditional shades of watermelon reds and kumkum yellow. You’ll find that the embroidery is inspired by intricate age-old Indian techniques and to do justice to that, the ladies make sure that every bit of the surface ornamentation is hand done. (Pieces can also be customized with varied silhouettes and embroideries.)
Visit their pop-up shop in:
San Francisco: February 6th at the Hyatt Place in Fremont/Silicon valley at 3101 W Warren Ave, CA 94538.
Los Angeles: February 7th at Amaya restaurant, 7850 Beach Blvd, Buena Park CA, 90620.
Recently I sat down with Betsy Blancett Nacrelli to discuss her new venture, Joya, a curated collection of handmade artisanal jewelry. Betsy’s joie de vivre immediately draws you in. The first time I met her, listening to her countless adventures around the world was captivating. It’s these adventures that made Joya possible. The Joya collection is handmade by artisans in India, Indonesia, Europe and the U.S. whom she found through her previous career working as a buyer for Arhaus furniture. When she launched her own venture into the furniture business, jewelry was an obvious next step. Betsy told me all about how her idea for Joya came to be, how she chooses her designs and why giving back is important — and possible even for a new business!
How did the idea for Joya spark?
I came up with the idea around the same time my husband and I started our furniture business. I have always brought back jewelry from Bali (during her trips for Arhaus furniture) and I would also get requests to bring it back for friends. So my husband and I thought it would be a great idea to try our hand at selling jewelry too.
The idea for subscription boxes came to me from a friend. All of our friends are super busy and spend more time shopping for their kids than themselves. One of my friends told me she wished someone would deliver her jewelry rather than shopping for it herself. That way she’d have something new to wear and a regular pick me up delivered straight to her door.
My Joya subscription box came with a pair of earrings, a scarf, a pendant necklace and a set of bangles.
How would you describe the Joya aesthetic?
Our aesthetic is eclectic, natural and world traveled. At the core of the brand, we believe in artisan quality goods. Everything is 100% hand crafted. We don’t compromise on quality or style.
How do you choose the designs for each collection? Do you follow/forecast jewelry trends?
Yes I do follow the jewelry trends. I’m constantly looking at every corner of the globe and what’s going on domestically with fashion. I also visit Europe for the fashion shows and I work on color stories. Currently I’m completing the color story for spring.
What came together to make your idea a reality?
There were two main factors: the people and the creative point we were at in our lives. When I stepped out from the corporate world (at Arhaus), I always wanted to be an entrepreneur. We were open to being creative and already had all the tools to make the business a success. We looked at the people we partnered with to make it a reality. I had experience in traveling, logistics, sourcing products internationally, import duties and merchandising. I knew someone in Bali who handmade all of these products as well as jewelry makers in India and the U.S. I also had a web developer.
How do you juggle your full-time job with running your own small business?
That’s the biggest challenge. When you run your own business, there is no such thing as hours or weekends. It is all hands on deck. My husband will remind me we have to go out to dinner. I’m still working on finding that balance.
Your philosophy is to help women uplift other women. For you, is there a personal experience or story that makes this philosophy particularly important to you?
All the women in my life have been a great inspiration, even my work mentors. It’s a blessing to have been surrounded by strong and independent women in my life. I met with Bali Life in Indonesia in September and have attended several events with a women’s safe house in St. Louis. We are careful with who we chose. At Bali Life, they run a children’s home, a street kids project, a women’s center and they also educate children. We are happy to be providing enough aid to Bali Life that they are now serving three meals a day.
Disclosure: Joya has gifted the quarterly subscription box. All opinions in this post are my own.
Joya Giveaway
Love the jewelry as much as I do? Joya is giving away a Quarterly Subscription Box to one lucky winner! Enter the Rafflecopter below for a chance to win.
Rules: Contest ends Sunday, November 15 at 11:59 pm. Promotion is offered to US residents only. You must use the Rafflecopter to enter. Winner will be notified via email and will have 48 hours to claim their prize. After that time, the winner will be disqualified and another winner will be drawn. Good luck!
Known for her dreamy and ethereal gowns, Prathyusha Garimella has created quite a name for herself since launching in 2012. The Hyderabad based designer has a way with making a bride feel like royalty in the flowing gowns she creates. With a mix of eastern embroidery like zardozi and gota patti and western silhouettes like capes and crop tops, her designs effuse modern simplicity and elegance. The self-taught designer opens up about her designs, her style and her hometown of Hyderabad.
The designer Prathyusha Garimella
What defines your brand philosophy with regards to style?
My line is a contemporary take on traditional Indian wear. I try to create pieces that reflect my own personal aesthetic — outfits that evoke effortless elegance in softer hues.
You launched your collection in Hyderabad. Can you describe the fashion scene there?
The fashion scene in Hyderabad has changed exponentially in the past few years. Earlier, people were more conservative and conventional in their choices. But now, there’s more exposure and awareness of the global fashion scene. People are ready to experiment with their choices and develop their own personal style. There are a lot of talented young upcoming designers in this city and we all help each other out. It feels nice to be able to contribute and be a part of it.
Your designs are described as having a “royal allure”. Are there any particular royal style icons present or historical that you look to as muses?
I don’t have a royal muse per say, but I do admire Olivia Palermo for her flawless personal style. She is always so well put together!
Having lived in Hyderabad, I would like to think my clothes have a touch of the Nizami influence. I like to use lighter modern designs of zardozi, gota pati, etc. There is such an abundant amount of talented artisans in this city; it would be a shame to not maximize their potential.
As a self-taught designer, what are your best lessons from learning on your own?
Since I’m completely self-taught, it took me time to learn and absorb all the different aspects and nuances of the fashion industry. But slowly and surely with all the right help, I crossed that bridge and now I feel I’m in a more comfortable space. Though, not a single day goes by when I don’t learn something new. It’s an ongoing process!
Can you illustrate your style, both work and personal?
When I’m working I just want to wear something I’m super comfortable in. Usually that means simple T-shirts and shorts. You will see me in either uber casual or ultra glam mode. My personal style tends to operate between extremes that way!
You are a master of ethereal embroidered gowns and capes. Do you have any plans to design a more casual western wear collection in the vein of your everyday personal style?
Not at this point in time. I’m enjoying what I do currently. I enjoy the creative process with Indian wear; there is so much inspiration for it all around.
You have said that your pieces are versatile and can be mixed and matched to create unique looks. How have you seen your designs styled in alternative ways that have impressed you?
Among my pieces, the crop tops seems to have the most versatility. I have seen my tops paired with everything from sarees to lehenga skirts to midi skirts.
What is your fashion fetish?
Unlike most girls, surprisingly, I’m not that into shoes. But I am more into handbags. I like collecting classics.
Are there any trends you would avoid at any cost?
I’m not a big fan of marsala and don’t see myself incorporating that color in my collection, as I feel it doesn’t do much for the Indian skin tone.
As a bridal wear designer, you know weddings. Is there a particular venue that you adore for the picture perfect fairytale wedding?
India is a beautiful country and there is no shortage of breathtaking locations. Some of my favorite venues are the Taj Lake Palace Hotel in Udaipur and Umaid Bhawan in Jodhpur. They are truly fairytale like and beautiful.
Lauren Conrad and pal Hannah Skvarla began The Little Market after bonding in school over their love of travel, design and female empowerment. Conrad and Skvarla connect female artisans from around the world with consumers looking for beautiful handmade products with a global feel. These female artisans from places like India, Ghana and Bolivia are now able to overcome poverty, support their communities and even pay for their children’s education.
I first heard about The Little Market while watching The Real Girl’s Kitchen with Haylie Duff on the Cooking Channel. On this particular episode, Duff cooked a Moroccan inspired feast with Skvarla and Conrad. The meal was plated with sweet lemon ceramic dishes made in Tunisia sold by The Little Market. The dishes only served to make the meal even more authentic, beautiful and enjoyable. While watching, I enjoyed hearing the story behind the company. It was endearing to hear how excited Conrad and Skvarla were about their venture to help other female entrepreneurs make their dreams come true. I’m all for women helping women.
How It Works
Through this platform, a loose knit group of artisans are able to share their traditional skills and wares among a wider audience. Conrad and Skvarla also offer their unique design insights to help these artisans’ businesses flourish.
To maintain its integrity, the Little Marketplace practices fair trade principles. While each purchase generates income for the artisans, over time they are able to see a sustainable change in their daily lives. They can pay for their children’s school. With the help of local cooperatives/non-profits, artisan partners contribute to their community through health programs, trade education and literacy workshops. Artisan collectives that partner with The Little Market must also comply with safety standards, child labor laws, workplace conditions and such.
Why It Matters
The Little Market has grown to empower dozens of artisans around the world.
Founders Conrad and Skvarla continue to be humbled by the talent and success of their artisan partners. The duo witnesses the positive change the income is making on these artisans’ lives. The social and economic impact on their artisan partners is a huge part of how The Little Market measures its success. By helping some of the most disadvantaged groups to reach markets they would otherwise not have access to, the difference the company makes is life changing.
The Little Market sells everything from accessories like scarves and clutches, to baby products like blankets and bibs, and home décor products like candles, baskets, tableware or even chocolate. Shop http://www.thelittlemarket.com/ online or follow their journey @thelittlemarket on Instagram.
Images courtesy of The Little Market, except second image courtesy of Ora.TV. Collage by me.
Madsam Tinzin Bridal look with the brand’s store mascot Dixie
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Madsam Tinzin available at NYC Coterie
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Madsam Tinzin Bridal look with the brand’s store mascot Dixie
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
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Madsam Tinzin Bridal
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
Madsam Tinzin available at NYC Coterie
Madsam Tinzin available at NYC Coterie
Madsam Tinzin available at NYC Coterie
Have you ever dreamed of starting your own business with close friends? Designers Madhuritu Dutta (MAD), Saumya Sharma (SAM), Tina Bhardwaj (TIN) and Stanzin Dazes (ZIN) imagined working together after graduating from the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Mumbai. But once they graduated, life got in the way and the idea was almost history. Until one day they came together and formed their label Madsam Tinzin in 2012.
Their vision was to offer beauty in simplicity for the modern woman. By focusing on brilliant, yet modest embroidery and a mix of east/west silhouettes, they carved out a unique niche of their own in India’s competitive fashion industry. The latest collection “Angan” captivated everyone at Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015. One of the freshest lines to walk the runway, Angan featured minimal cuts with maximum impact. Soft, flowing fabrics like organza, tulle and silk in a rainbow of soft sherbet shades glittered with intricate geometric, floral and beaded embellishments.
Just as their designs, the promising young designers of Madsam Tinzin are like a breath of fresh air. Get to know more about these ladies who never cease to dazzle with their free spirit and friendly attitudes.
Team Madsam Tinzin in their bridal party style
What are the pros and cons of having a 4-person design team?
MadSam TinZin, as the name suggests, is the coming together of four creatively diverse minds. It is the fusion of our four viewpoints that inform the product. Each of us has a separate portfolio, which we supervise; but when it comes to a creative decision, we prefer the company of all. When we say that, we don’t mean there aren’t disagreements. It has to be utopia with four women and no catfights. Eventually the content of the end result gives us amnesia about everything else!
Artisans hand beading one of Madsam Tinzin’s designs
You have such a strong brand identity with your delicate embroidery, soft color palettes and understated elegance. How did your brand aesthetic evolve to become what it is today?
When we decided to start this label, we had a vision for what we wanted to offer our clients. Today, all four of us feel strongly about the quality and commerciality of our outfits. As for our personalities, we love to be understated, which reflects in our work. So much so, that when we go shopping together, we end up picking the same style in different colors!
Although the four of us have shared similar tastes, our product has evolved over the years with the help of client feedback and fashion critics. They have helped us hone our distinctive forte. And we will continue to do that as we grow. Also, we are four different women with four different body types. Therefore the product that we create finds its functionality in the four of us.
Fashion illustrations by Madsam Tinzin
For those of us outside of India, how has NIFT prepared you not only as designers, but also as successful businesswomen?
Just like other students, we questioned the relevance of every subject and lecture in college. It wasn’t until we started working with graduates from other colleges that we realized how strong a role NIFT’s professors had in our professional achievements. Not only does NIFT focus on designing, but it also teaches execution, thus familiarizing students with all aspects of a business.
Inside the store – bridal styles on display ready for the next wedding trousseau
What is your typical day like?
When our work is in full season, we have a lot of walk-ins. Days may go by when the four of us are not together on the same platform. When it is this busy, clients may visit us for the fifth time and be pleasantly surprised to see us all at once. But then there are days when we decide to push everything aside for a quick break to recharge away from the madness!
The designers and their friends at play – the brand was built on a foundation of friendship
What is the most fun you have had at work?
Well, we have had many. But once for Valentine’s Day, we decided to close our store and just watch a nice romantic movie in each other’s company.
Bride Natasha dressed in Madsam Tinzin for her wedding day
How do brides work with you to curate their bridal trousseau?
We have a lot of brides who work with us on their trousseau. Every bride is concerned about variety in her wardrobe and we offer a range of outfits to choose from. We also customize pieces for such clients through varied silhouettes and embroideries. For the wedding day, some clients choose a light, breezy lehenga for their destination wedding while others seek more elaborate royal attire for their D-day at a palace. It is most fun to work with brides who incorporate a bit of their parents’ religious sentiments (i.e. bandhani for Guajaratis) into their cosmopolitan personalities!
Styles available at Coterie in New York City
What’s the next big step for Madsam Tinzin?
As we move forward creatively with this brand, we want to grow and continue to bring something new to our clients. We will relentlessly work towards creating a unique and high quality product. As for our business, we would love to expand internationally and present our interpretation of Indian wear around the globe. With the exhibition Coterie in New York City (September 19 – 21), we hope to get a chance to work with international names and promote the idea of hand embroidery all over the world!
For those who work behind the scenes, we would love to offer them better facilities. And we want to contribute to a better quality of life for their families. Madsam Tinzin is not just a designer label. It is the effort of a team who works in tandem to craft a garment. Every bit of appreciation is deeply appreciated!
Nestled in central Christchurch rests the headquarters of one of New Zealand’s most promising retail startups. Summer Soukis the newest destination for designer South Asian fashion. After a challenging experience sourcing her own bridal trousseau remotely from India, founder Farah Ali wanted to make it easier to shop Indo-Western and Eastern apparel in Australasia. By starting an online boutique, she became the point of contact between shoppers and designers. Farah had opened the doors to a more stylish future for Australasia and beyond. Read on to learn more about this visionary entrepreneur. And shop Summer Souk with the code BNBxSS for 10% off your purchase sitewide!
Clockwise from top left: A local museum on Farah’s street, Botanical Gardens, Summer Souk office space including sneak peek at black and navy silk skirts coming soon, Farah and her husband Hossein, punting on the Avon river, Farah’s winter style
About Farah
Farah Ali can usually be found hard at work in her home office, a warm and organized space that also houses her colorful collection of curated merchandise. As she looks out over her tree-lined street, she can see the Avon River, a reminder of what a beautiful and inspiring city Christchurch is to operate in. Currently, it is wintertime down under, so she prefers dressing in classic, effortless pieces like an oversized sweater or wool dress. But with her flair for fashion, she usually adds a bold statement piece or bright polish. Her look is punctuated by elegance and comfort — two hallmarks of her style philosophy, which shine through her curated collection for Summer Souk.
How It Began
Farah was destined for a career in creative entrepreneurship. With an education in art academics and experience in business development, Summer Souk seemed inevitable. The idea for the business began when searching for her bridal trousseau. She had no local point of contact to assist her. While procuring her wardrobe, she came across so many talented designers; she thought, “It would be amazing if there were a local platform that enabled quality designers from this region to be showcased to the world.” And the seed for the venture was planted.
For Farah, bringing Summer Souk to the Australasian market was a turning point for the region. “When the idea for the store began, there were no other regional platforms for “Indian” wear…I truly believe that we are unique in our vision of providing a more extensive platform for both new and established designers.” In her first year, she introduced emerging designers like Sapana Amin, Ka Sha and Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhry and showcased established designers like Payal Singhal and Hemant & Nandita to Australasians. Each month she continues to add more designers to the shop, an indication of how quickly Summer Souk has grown and how effectively Farah has chosen designers.
Why Brides Love Summer Souk
Through her own experience, Farah also realizes how much more personalized weddings have become. Couples increasingly look for ways to express themselves. To cater to these discerning couples, Summer Souk offers free styling and customized wardrobe design services. “We assist in sourcing a complete look, from apparel and jewelry to accessories and footwear. We also provide an option to create custom garments from scratch based on the client’s budgets and needs.”
Brides love this service because they have a liaison working for them to ensure their garments are customized quickly and efficiently. This eliminates the hassle of worrying about missed deadlines or incorrect sizing. Instead, brides can focus on other wedding duties, knowing that their bridal trousseau is taken care of.
Summer Souk only works with top design houses to ensure garments are always made with quality materials and finishings. Farah believes in protecting the integrity of a designer’s work so she does not advocate exact reproductions. “A garment produced with quality materials, even when it’s simple, is much more elegant in style and movement than something produced with less quality or cheaper materials. I want to produce the best quality and most elegant design for our clients and I want them to feel truly beautiful, comfortable and unique in what they wear.”
Although it began as a way to serve the local population in Australasia, Summer Souk is also available internationally. Shop online or contact Farah to be styled (a complimentary service) for your next event. It’s the attention to detail and personal service that sets Summer Souk apart from other online South Asian retailers. Look out for the new line of suzani bedding and embroidered silk shirts coming soon. Don’t forget to use code BNBxSS for 10% off your purchase sitewide.
Check back tomorrow for an exclusive look at how to style pieces from Summer Souk with Farah Ali!
Award-winning Pakistani designer Erum Khan has us psyched for summer with her collection, The Untainted Shine. Organza skirts, flirty ruffles, sheer capes and exquisite beading dazzled the runway in the freshest shades of white and gold. Smitten by her work, I spoke to Khan about her collection, the appeal of Pakistan’s fashion industry in the West and her advice for aspiring designers.
A version of this article appeared in the Spring/Summer 2015 issue of Zardozi Magazine. Check out the latest issue for more South Asian style, beauty and culture – available for free online.
The Collection
Tell us about “The Untainted Shine” collection. What’s behind the name?
The collection has been inspired by royalty and features interesting motifs such as 3D flowers, pearls and diamanté crystals. Likewise, the fabrics used are also very luxurious such as organza, pure silk and georgettes, which have a touch of shimmer.
From ensuring each bead and sequin is sewed in place correctly, to choosing models, doing fittings and shooting photos — how do you manage when preparing for a high profile fashion show like PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week?
To stay on top of things in any field, one should be very well organized. I plan everything out with my team far in advance so that there are no chances of any mishaps occurring at the last minute. That’s how I work.
Pakistan’s Fashion Industry
The popularity of South Asian designers has grown lately in America with Prabal Gurung, Naeem Khan and Bibhu Mohapatra. Where do you see Pakistani designers within the western fashion industry? And how can they become more mainstream among non-desis?
I think Pakistani designers have a lot of potential in the Western market. In the past designers such as Maheen Khan and Nilofer Shahid have received great responses internationally. In order to become mainstream, we definitely need to market ourselves better. We will also have to master the art of fusion designing. Our ethnic embellishments can be infused beautifully with western cuts, and this is one aspect which I feel our designers have still not fully explored.
To make it big as a designer in Pakistan, you have noted finding the right talent and raising capital as key. Based on your success, what other tips do you have for aspiring designers?
Don’t decide to become a fashion designer if you are smitten by the glamour. There’s a lot of hard work involved. Fashion designers spend most of their time working in their studios till late hours. You have to be very passionate about designing, but also understand the business side of fashion. Be very realistic for your customers in terms of designing and pricing.
Life Lessons
The pressure on young girls to look thin and flawless is overwhelming these days with unattainable ideals set forth by the fashion/beauty industry. What’s your philosophy?
I always make sure that my clients are comfortable in whatever I design. I understand my clientele and make clothes accordingly. The media worldwide has set up unrealistic expectations from women, which I strongly oppose. Everybody should dress up to feel good, not to meet certain societal expectations.
What is the most satisfying part of your work as a designer?
I get a chance to use my strongest talent: designing. It used to be a hobby initially, so I am lucky to be making a living from what I truly enjoy doing. The positive feedback I receive from my customers worldwide is what makes it all worth it.
Living outside of Pakistan? Check out Erum Khan’s latest designs on her official Facebook page and place orders via email at [email protected]. Orders are shipped worldwide.
Over the past few months, I have conducted several interviews with various South Asian designers whom I admire. Unfortunately, I’ve never had the chance to interview any of them face-to-face, as there are thousands of miles between my home in America and theirs in India. So I thought it might be fun to use my imagination to bridge the gap. I asked designer Aarti Vijay Gupta to help me set the mood for our interview. She chose a place we would have met if things were different and we lived in the same city…
Images from Aarti Vijay Gupta’s Spring/Summer 2015 Lookbook for “My World of Glass”
Aarti Vijay Gupta takes a sip of her caramel flavored cold coffee at Starbucks, around the corner from her Mumbai studio, and exhales pleasurably. After the successful debut of her Spring/Summer 2015 collection, “My World of Glass,” she has much to be happy about. Revered for her imaginative and quirky prints, it’s important that you know that she’s actually dressed in a basic outfit of a white cotton t-shirt and black Zara pants. Effortless, but still stylish. You see that’s the contradiction that is Aarti Vijay Gupta. She likes to keep it simple, yet her intricate designs seem anything but. Look more closely and you’ll see that they are incredibly wearable, comfortable and most certainly chic. All of those prints bring life to her work and her passion shines through in the colors, the theory and the attention to detail with regards to the story she is trying to tell.
As Aarti Vijay Gupta looks back at her life, she considers that moment after her graduation from NIFT* Mumbai that sparked her success. “The first step that you take towards what you really want is the most monumental,” she said. “When you pursue your dreams and do what feels right — days like that are significant on your path to success,” she advises.
Gupta cut her teeth in the industry for 4 years before launching her own label, a truly significant point in her career. And she’s continued to mature from there. Every day she takes on new challenges and sets new goals. “You evolve daily,” Gupta muses. “Perhaps you start off wanting to be the best designer. Or you want to connect with the world. Maybe you want to become more consumer-friendly. Or perhaps you’d like to be more creatively sound. And sometimes you just want to break all of the norms and try something new, against your gut feeling.” These are the thoughts of a true artist searching for meaning and self-awareness.
However, don’t be confused. It’s not about self-doubt or insecurity. And she’s definitely not the type to compare her work to others. “Those that pursue this type of career for creative satisfaction or fun don’t end up comparing themselves to others. You see this as less of a competitive field and more of a field with infinite possibilities. That way you can focus on doing what you love the most.”
And it certainly shows through her stunning work how much she loves to design. In fact, it’s pretty exciting to see how everyday pieces become the foundation for her collections. “My ideology is simple: take something extremely mundane and turn it into wearable art.” In past seasons, she has adapted popular symbols of Indian history and art such as Indian postal stamps, silk miniature paintings and even the country’s map into her work. She hopes to put India on the map as a designer by taking Indian art to the world. “We have our textiles, hand-woven fabric and art to showcase. Indian elements really stand out internationally.”
Her most recent collection travels a bit further from home drawing inspiration from Moroccan mosaic tea glasses. “Mosaic Art is a technique. It is essentially bright while the patterns are intricate and defined. As a whole, it looks like a vibrant colorful piece of art,” she explains. “To capture the transparency of Moroccan glass, I used organza to get that sheer look and applied mosaic patterns to it, she reveals. “Layering contrasting prints makes the whole ensemble more mysterious. Building contrast really is the best way to attain a complete look. The silhouette is loose to keep it comfortable, easy and wearable.”
Actually, her philosophy is all about designing for comfort and ease of wear. That way she can focus on reaching out to as many clients as possible all over the globe. “My silhouettes are simple and clean, which allows the prints to do all of the talking. Bold prints should be worn just as they are meant to be — in your face and raw. I don’t do color blocking nor do I like to balance prints with solid colors. I like my prints as is.” Point taken — solid advice on mixing prints from a print maven.
One of the best compliments she’s received as a designer has been from revered Indian designer Rohit Bal. “He said the collection was very new age and fresh,” Gupta recalls proudly. However, one of the most sincere compliments may be from Fern Mallis, founder of New York Fashion Week, who also happens to be a fan and client. “She loves it as it’s Indian yet global at the same time. In fact, I like the way Fern Mallis teams up one of my shirtdress tunics with almost everything and still looks so different each time,” Gupta gushes.
Fern Mallis in Aarti Vijay Gupta (with Rachel Zoe at left)
Oh so modest, Ms. Gupta. Perhaps it’s because your pieces are so wild and rare that it’s hard not to look unique in them. They have the ability to transform the wearer. Like Gupta says, her collection is not just comfortable clothes, but wearable art. I’ll buy a ticket to her gallery any day.
Shop Aarti Vijay Gupta’s current collection at Exclusively.com. And catch an exclusive photoshoot featuring her designs in Zardozi Magazine coming next week in the Spring/Summer 2015 issue!
*NIFT stands for the National Institute of Fashion Technology
431-88 by Shweta Kapur Presents MANHOLE at Amazon India Fashion Week A/W 2015
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Shweta Kapur Turns a Fall Into Fashion
431-88 by Shweta Kapur Presents MANHOLE at Amazon India Fashion Week A/W 2015
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Shweta Kapur Turns a Fall Into Fashion
431-88 by Shweta Kapur Presents MANHOLE at Amazon India Fashion Week A/W 2015
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Shweta Kapur Turns a Fall Into Fashion
431-88 by Shweta Kapur Presents MANHOLE at Amazon India Fashion Week A/W 2015
431-88 by Shweta Kapur Presents MANHOLE at Amazon India Fashion Week A/W 2015
431-88 by Shweta Kapur Presents MANHOLE at Amazon India Fashion Week A/W 2015
431-88 by Shweta Kapur Presents MANHOLE at Amazon India Fashion Week A/W 2015
431-88 by Shweta Kapur Presents MANHOLE at Amazon India Fashion Week A/W 2015
Who knew sportswear could be so sexy? MANHOLE, the latest collection by award-winning designer Shweta Kapur, is fueled by her own injurious fall down the so-called shaft. While another woman might hide an embarrassing fall, Kapur shined a light on the transforming episode because she saw an opportunity. More specifically, she saw the inspiration for the A/W 2015 collection of her label, 431-88. Models walked the runway at Amazon India Fashion Week sporting cutout dresses, minimalist saris, flowing trenches and fringe embellished sweatshirts. Monochromatic blacks, greys and whites were interspersed with splashes of red, which represented her bloody leg and scar tissue from the fall. Sounds gory, right? But the outcome is a thoughtful and surprisingly fashionable metaphor for her experience.
While 431-88 is known for its urban athletic vibe, the MANHOLE collection isn’t just for the minimalist tomboy. Each piece is etched in clean cuts with exquisite tailoring, making them classic staples for a serious fashionista’s wardrobe. Comfort chic at it’s finest. It’s no wonder celebs like Alia Bhatt, Jacqueline Fernandez and Diana Penty wear her creations. Discover more about the badass chick behind the gritty label 431-88 in this exclusive interview.
The Manhole collection has been described as “urban grunge” with inspiration taken from your own injurious fall into a manhole. Aside from the manhole, did you find urban grunge influence elsewhere such as the 90s, where this style was also popular?
Not really. The look of the collection when put together just naturally reflected the brand aesthetic, which does tilt towards urban grunge. We always style the shows on the basis of how we see our woman. For MANHOLE, I wanted to work on easy separates, which were sexy in their own way. Subtle cut outs and slits worked their way in to depict the injury. Prints included a manhole grid, which was made out of legs, since the injury was on the leg.
Out of New York, London, Mumbai and New Delhi, where you have trained under the likes of VPL, Burberry, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla and Nitin Balchauhan, respectively, which city holds the most sway over your heart?
Well it has to be London since I studied there and most of my formative years as a designer were based in that city. The city always has something going on related to art and culture and has a fresh youthful vibe. The fact that it’s so diverse and in turn a melting point of so many cultures, really changes your perception when it comes to designing. Besides the fact that it is a fashion capital, the way the people express and communicate through clothes is really inspiring.
How has winning an award like the Elle Graduates Award for Excellence opened new pathways for your career?
It gave me a lot of exposure and made the industry notice the label.
Your label 431-88 steers toward sporty, sexy and minimalistic. How would you describe your own style?
My own style is pretty much similar, maybe slightly more relaxed. I’m most comfortable in an oversized boyfriend shirt and a pair of jeans.
You often stick to a limited color palette, but at times inject a bold color. Do you see color as a character in your collection? What is your philosophy on color?
Yes. Because it’s such a strong visual tool/element, injecting color for me always has to make sense and add to the story.
Do you have any plans to ever design a South Asian/bridal collection?
We do our version of a sari, which is sexy, sporty and approachable. Even if we do create a bridal collection, it would be an extension of the brand aesthetic and ethos. At the end of the day, you are always thinking about your woman and what she will wear.
Becoming a successful fashion designer is no easy feat. What’s your mantra for the more challenging times?
Always be focused and remember why you started in the first place.
Where can we shop your latest collection?
We are online with our new collection on our website.
Art Karat Indian Jewelry 
Pushpak Vimaan 
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