Pushpak Vimaan is a breezy and beautiful rising label in India started by two sisters, Sravani and Smarani, in 2013. Their designs seem plucked from a fairy tale with an airy elegance, light yet thoughtful embellishments and a candy colored pastel palette. You’ll find a whimsical contrast between the East and West, the traditional and the contemporary, the practical and the fantasy. In search of magic in the world, the sisters say the dream they create with their clothes “waltzes with reality”.
Q&A
How did the name Pushpak Vimaan come about? What does it mean?
Quite unique like its name is the idea of the brand. Pushpak Vimaan signifies a dreamy journey of creating magical tenues for the young at heart.
What inspires you to design in this style with these types of silhouettes?
We believe in a process of design that appropriates western silhouettes and refocuses it back to Indian fabrics, embroidery, etc. The style of outfits designed tends to mimic western cuts where the emphasis is on the fusion of Indian textiles and embellishments.
What types of fabrics do you use? And which embroidery techniques do you implement?
We use a range of fabrics from rich and hand woven fabric such as Tussar silk to airy and cool fusion fabric such as linen georgette. We tend to experiment with incorporating different styles of embroidery techniques such as zardozi, pita, applique and mirror work. We might have changes in the weaves, patterns and designs with each collection, but we tend to maintain its magnificence.
What’s the buzz right now in South Asia for your pieces?
Bollywood fashionista Bhumi Pednekar (@psbhumi) of Dum laga ke Haisha fame was recently spotted in a Tussar silk jumpsuit from our maiden collection Aham at the IIFA weekend event in Madrid. She was styled in our outfit by the celebrity stylist Shaina Nath (@shainanath). Her appearance in our creation has truly set the ball rolling for us. We are being noticed and appreciated with much enthusiasm.
Madsam Tinzin Bridal look with the brand’s store mascot Dixie
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Madsam Tinzin
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
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Madsam Tinzin
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
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Madsam Tinzin
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
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Madsam Tinzin
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
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Madsam Tinzin
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
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Madsam Tinzin
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
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Madsam Tinzin
Madsam Tinzin available at NYC Coterie
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Madsam Tinzin
Madsam Tinzin available at NYC Coterie
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Madsam Tinzin
Madsam Tinzin available at NYC Coterie
Madsam Tinzin Bridal look with the brand’s store mascot Dixie
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
Madsam Tinzin Bridal
Madsam Tinzin available at NYC Coterie
Madsam Tinzin available at NYC Coterie
Madsam Tinzin available at NYC Coterie
Have you ever dreamed of starting your own business with close friends? Designers Madhuritu Dutta (MAD), Saumya Sharma (SAM), Tina Bhardwaj (TIN) and Stanzin Dazes (ZIN) imagined working together after graduating from the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Mumbai. But once they graduated, life got in the way and the idea was almost history. Until one day they came together and formed their label Madsam Tinzin in 2012.
Their vision was to offer beauty in simplicity for the modern woman. By focusing on brilliant, yet modest embroidery and a mix of east/west silhouettes, they carved out a unique niche of their own in India’s competitive fashion industry. The latest collection “Angan” captivated everyone at Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015. One of the freshest lines to walk the runway, Angan featured minimal cuts with maximum impact. Soft, flowing fabrics like organza, tulle and silk in a rainbow of soft sherbet shades glittered with intricate geometric, floral and beaded embellishments.
Just as their designs, the promising young designers of Madsam Tinzin are like a breath of fresh air. Get to know more about these ladies who never cease to dazzle with their free spirit and friendly attitudes.
Team Madsam Tinzin in their bridal party style
What are the pros and cons of having a 4-person design team?
MadSam TinZin, as the name suggests, is the coming together of four creatively diverse minds. It is the fusion of our four viewpoints that inform the product. Each of us has a separate portfolio, which we supervise; but when it comes to a creative decision, we prefer the company of all. When we say that, we don’t mean there aren’t disagreements. It has to be utopia with four women and no catfights. Eventually the content of the end result gives us amnesia about everything else!
Artisans hand beading one of Madsam Tinzin’s designs
You have such a strong brand identity with your delicate embroidery, soft color palettes and understated elegance. How did your brand aesthetic evolve to become what it is today?
When we decided to start this label, we had a vision for what we wanted to offer our clients. Today, all four of us feel strongly about the quality and commerciality of our outfits. As for our personalities, we love to be understated, which reflects in our work. So much so, that when we go shopping together, we end up picking the same style in different colors!
Although the four of us have shared similar tastes, our product has evolved over the years with the help of client feedback and fashion critics. They have helped us hone our distinctive forte. And we will continue to do that as we grow. Also, we are four different women with four different body types. Therefore the product that we create finds its functionality in the four of us.
Fashion illustrations by Madsam Tinzin
For those of us outside of India, how has NIFT prepared you not only as designers, but also as successful businesswomen?
Just like other students, we questioned the relevance of every subject and lecture in college. It wasn’t until we started working with graduates from other colleges that we realized how strong a role NIFT’s professors had in our professional achievements. Not only does NIFT focus on designing, but it also teaches execution, thus familiarizing students with all aspects of a business.
Inside the store – bridal styles on display ready for the next wedding trousseau
What is your typical day like?
When our work is in full season, we have a lot of walk-ins. Days may go by when the four of us are not together on the same platform. When it is this busy, clients may visit us for the fifth time and be pleasantly surprised to see us all at once. But then there are days when we decide to push everything aside for a quick break to recharge away from the madness!
The designers and their friends at play – the brand was built on a foundation of friendship
What is the most fun you have had at work?
Well, we have had many. But once for Valentine’s Day, we decided to close our store and just watch a nice romantic movie in each other’s company.
Bride Natasha dressed in Madsam Tinzin for her wedding day
How do brides work with you to curate their bridal trousseau?
We have a lot of brides who work with us on their trousseau. Every bride is concerned about variety in her wardrobe and we offer a range of outfits to choose from. We also customize pieces for such clients through varied silhouettes and embroideries. For the wedding day, some clients choose a light, breezy lehenga for their destination wedding while others seek more elaborate royal attire for their D-day at a palace. It is most fun to work with brides who incorporate a bit of their parents’ religious sentiments (i.e. bandhani for Guajaratis) into their cosmopolitan personalities!
Styles available at Coterie in New York City
What’s the next big step for Madsam Tinzin?
As we move forward creatively with this brand, we want to grow and continue to bring something new to our clients. We will relentlessly work towards creating a unique and high quality product. As for our business, we would love to expand internationally and present our interpretation of Indian wear around the globe. With the exhibition Coterie in New York City (September 19 – 21), we hope to get a chance to work with international names and promote the idea of hand embroidery all over the world!
For those who work behind the scenes, we would love to offer them better facilities. And we want to contribute to a better quality of life for their families. Madsam Tinzin is not just a designer label. It is the effort of a team who works in tandem to craft a garment. Every bit of appreciation is deeply appreciated!
Over the past few months, I have conducted several interviews with various South Asian designers whom I admire. Unfortunately, I’ve never had the chance to interview any of them face-to-face, as there are thousands of miles between my home in America and theirs in India. So I thought it might be fun to use my imagination to bridge the gap. I asked designer Aarti Vijay Gupta to help me set the mood for our interview. She chose a place we would have met if things were different and we lived in the same city…
Images from Aarti Vijay Gupta’s Spring/Summer 2015 Lookbook for “My World of Glass”
Aarti Vijay Gupta takes a sip of her caramel flavored cold coffee at Starbucks, around the corner from her Mumbai studio, and exhales pleasurably. After the successful debut of her Spring/Summer 2015 collection, “My World of Glass,” she has much to be happy about. Revered for her imaginative and quirky prints, it’s important that you know that she’s actually dressed in a basic outfit of a white cotton t-shirt and black Zara pants. Effortless, but still stylish. You see that’s the contradiction that is Aarti Vijay Gupta. She likes to keep it simple, yet her intricate designs seem anything but. Look more closely and you’ll see that they are incredibly wearable, comfortable and most certainly chic. All of those prints bring life to her work and her passion shines through in the colors, the theory and the attention to detail with regards to the story she is trying to tell.
As Aarti Vijay Gupta looks back at her life, she considers that moment after her graduation from NIFT* Mumbai that sparked her success. “The first step that you take towards what you really want is the most monumental,” she said. “When you pursue your dreams and do what feels right — days like that are significant on your path to success,” she advises.
Gupta cut her teeth in the industry for 4 years before launching her own label, a truly significant point in her career. And she’s continued to mature from there. Every day she takes on new challenges and sets new goals. “You evolve daily,” Gupta muses. “Perhaps you start off wanting to be the best designer. Or you want to connect with the world. Maybe you want to become more consumer-friendly. Or perhaps you’d like to be more creatively sound. And sometimes you just want to break all of the norms and try something new, against your gut feeling.” These are the thoughts of a true artist searching for meaning and self-awareness.
However, don’t be confused. It’s not about self-doubt or insecurity. And she’s definitely not the type to compare her work to others. “Those that pursue this type of career for creative satisfaction or fun don’t end up comparing themselves to others. You see this as less of a competitive field and more of a field with infinite possibilities. That way you can focus on doing what you love the most.”
And it certainly shows through her stunning work how much she loves to design. In fact, it’s pretty exciting to see how everyday pieces become the foundation for her collections. “My ideology is simple: take something extremely mundane and turn it into wearable art.” In past seasons, she has adapted popular symbols of Indian history and art such as Indian postal stamps, silk miniature paintings and even the country’s map into her work. She hopes to put India on the map as a designer by taking Indian art to the world. “We have our textiles, hand-woven fabric and art to showcase. Indian elements really stand out internationally.”
Her most recent collection travels a bit further from home drawing inspiration from Moroccan mosaic tea glasses. “Mosaic Art is a technique. It is essentially bright while the patterns are intricate and defined. As a whole, it looks like a vibrant colorful piece of art,” she explains. “To capture the transparency of Moroccan glass, I used organza to get that sheer look and applied mosaic patterns to it, she reveals. “Layering contrasting prints makes the whole ensemble more mysterious. Building contrast really is the best way to attain a complete look. The silhouette is loose to keep it comfortable, easy and wearable.”
Actually, her philosophy is all about designing for comfort and ease of wear. That way she can focus on reaching out to as many clients as possible all over the globe. “My silhouettes are simple and clean, which allows the prints to do all of the talking. Bold prints should be worn just as they are meant to be — in your face and raw. I don’t do color blocking nor do I like to balance prints with solid colors. I like my prints as is.” Point taken — solid advice on mixing prints from a print maven.
One of the best compliments she’s received as a designer has been from revered Indian designer Rohit Bal. “He said the collection was very new age and fresh,” Gupta recalls proudly. However, one of the most sincere compliments may be from Fern Mallis, founder of New York Fashion Week, who also happens to be a fan and client. “She loves it as it’s Indian yet global at the same time. In fact, I like the way Fern Mallis teams up one of my shirtdress tunics with almost everything and still looks so different each time,” Gupta gushes.
Fern Mallis in Aarti Vijay Gupta (with Rachel Zoe at left)
Oh so modest, Ms. Gupta. Perhaps it’s because your pieces are so wild and rare that it’s hard not to look unique in them. They have the ability to transform the wearer. Like Gupta says, her collection is not just comfortable clothes, but wearable art. I’ll buy a ticket to her gallery any day.
Shop Aarti Vijay Gupta’s current collection at Exclusively.com. And catch an exclusive photoshoot featuring her designs in Zardozi Magazine coming next week in the Spring/Summer 2015 issue!
*NIFT stands for the National Institute of Fashion Technology
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
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Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
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Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
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Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
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Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
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Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
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Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
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Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
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Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
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Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Mithu! bridal collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary
Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary steps into traditional territory with its first bridal collection, ‘Mithu!’ The designer reinvents the modern South Asian bride this season with his eye for playful motifs and striking color palettes. From Pac-Man to Pisces to the pristine sunflower, his whimsical interpretations of everyday motifs uncover new meanings. With his latest collection, ‘Mithu!’, he takes on the regal cockatoo bird. Continuing his grand experiment with fashion, Chaudhary peels back another layer with this new collection, allowing us to understand his vision more thoroughly. I cannot wait to see what he comes up with next on his eccentric journey within contemporary South Asian fashion.
With sheer paneled pants and unique draping, your wedding inspired line is for the experimental bride. How were you able to find a balance between your love of bold prints and unconventional style with the more traditional flair of an Indian bride?
This collection was carefully thought through, as it was our first foray into a completely Indian range. For Surendri, it’s about the mind space and aesthetic and then comes the occasion based garments. So everything from swimsuits to sarees has to have that Surendri aesthetic imbibed.
If you had to pick just one leading lady, which real life personality epitomizes the Surendri woman and why?
There are so many. I think I could go with Kalki (Koechlin) since for me personality and voice trump everything else.
You emphasize that you design for women of all body types. Why is this important to you and how have you incorporated this philosophy into your designs?
I think the ethos of Surendri is primarily to be a brand that includes all women that share the same bold, carefree and confident personality. It is more about a particular kind of personality rather than a particular body type. Since our clients come in all shapes and sizes, it is imperative for us to keep the clan growing and help our tribe get their dosage of Surendri.
I absolutely loved two of your initial collections, ‘Dip Dip My Sunken Ship’ Summer/Resort 2013 and Miss Pac-In District Winter/Festive 2012. They showcase your incredibly playful side. Where do you think it comes from?
Miss Pac in District was of course a take on my obsession with Pac-Man the video game, which I played for endless hours. Dip Dip was an ode to my sun sign Pisces. So every season comes with a new inspiration, which is usually drawn from a personal experience.
You are known for weaving a strong motif into your designs like the sunflower, or most recently birds. How do you find new ways of reinventing one motif while maintaining intrigue?
The most difficult part about creating designs for a season is staying true to Surendri’s tradition, which is working on a single motif. Narrowing it down to one final motif is the hardest part as there are many ideas running around at the same time. Once that is decided, reinvention is the easier and more fun part. Creating new designs is something that comes naturally to me being a designer.
What is the most challenging part of creating a new line for you?
As mentioned earlier, designing comes so easily to me. But it’s only when deciding on an inspiration that I face some challenges. As a creative person you are constantly inspired and thinking of things to do for the next season. So it is hard in terms of just coming to a stop and freezing on one particular direction for the line to come.
What advice would you give aspiring young designers in the west looking to break into the Indian market?
Relevance is key. Create a product that doesn’t exist already.
If you weren’t a designer, what would you be?
A chef.
For more about the designer, visit Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary online. Shop styles from the new Mithu! collection from Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary below.
All images courtesy of Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary.
Rising star Rosie Assoulin understands what women want – beautiful creations that are also incredibly wearable. At 29, Assoulin is only in her second year and has already won the hearts of fashion’s elite. With a fondness for bold color and sculptural cuts, Assoulin designs day and evening wear with equal dexterity. She carved her own path, overcoming fear of the unknown, to make her way as one of the most refreshing female talents now emerging on the fashion scene.
Rosie Assoulin Fall 2015
Work Experience
At 14, Assoulin assisted costume jeweler Roxanne Assoulin, her future mother-in-law. She studied at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, but dropped out when she realized it wasn’t the right fit for her. She went on to score prestigious internships with Oscar de la Renta and Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz.
Assoulin always talked of starting her own line, but she was terrified about following through. Friends and family gave her confidence to overcome the irrational fear standing in her way. Watching friends like The Man Repeller’s Leandra Medine become successful from complete anonymity was inspiring. Assoulin realized that starting her own line was the only thing that would make her truly happy.
Rosie Assoulin Spring Summer 2015
And boy did her dreams come true. After only a year, she became a finalist in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and was nominated for the CFDA Swarovski Award for Women’s Wear Design.
Rosie Assoulin Spring Summer 2015
Design Philosophy
Notice the pockets in her designs? Rosie Assoulin believes clothes should be sensible and incredibly wearable. She adores clothes that are special, but not too special that you’ll only wear them on exclusive occasions. Assoulin says, “If I can make a ball gown feel like a pair of sweatpants, then I have succeeded.” (Elle) It’s her desire to make clothes for women to look and feel good that has won her so much praise.
Rosie Assoulin Resort 2015
About the Clothes
Based in New York’s Garment District, her entire collection is made in America while her fabrics are from Italy. Assoulin says that she likes to stay close to her production so she can drop in anytime. It offers better control for a young designer like her.
Assoulin’s clothes have a feminine sophistication with a strong sculptural element. Yet they are still comfortable and easy to wear. And this design perspective shines brightest with her eveningwear.
Rosie Assoulin Resort 2014
Celebs Wearing Rosie Assoulin
Famous fashionistas have quickly taken to her comfortable feminine designs. Stars like Sonam Kapoor, Lupita Nyong’o and Michelle Dockery have donned her designs for the red carpet.
See anything you like? Shop her designs at Moda Operandi.
Professional dancer Aminah Abdul Jillil has always been a fan of fashion. For someone who has performed with top acts like Britney Spears, Janet Jackson and Cirque du Soleil, she knows a thing or two about costumes, embellishments and street culture. She has taken her eye for design and pointed it toward fancy footwear. By starting her own line of high style shoes, she is able to design for her favorite consumer — herself. When she shopped for shoes, she brainstormed ideas here and there to match her style. So she thought why not design my own shoes?
Aminah likes clean lines with a bit of fun. You will find over the top embellishments that pop up in unexpected places and the shoes sell at prices that won’t break the bank. Her fans include Rihanna, top bloggers like Aimee Song and fashion impresarios Vogue and Glamour. Which style is your favorite?
I recently heard about Carrie Andreas and Stacy Hayden who created the Vintage Modern line CS Gems. They have a unique selling model where they hold a “snap sale” on Facebook. The first person to comment “SOLD” on the piece wins it. Prices for snap sales range from $10-15, an affordable price for beautiful handmade vintage pieces. Buy their jewelry on the CS Gems Facebook page here. Or for more intricate pieces, shop their new Etsy store here. To learn more about Carrie and Sarah, read on!
BB: When did you start your business?
CS: August 2013
BB: You are mothers, musicians, and now jewelry artists. Why did you decide to start this business?
CS: We actually decided to start the business while on a play date. We thought it would be a great way to turn a hobby into a business and have some fun while doing it! We have been friends for over 20 years and include our families in most of our hunts!
BB: Tell us about your band, Carrie and the Catapults? Does it influence your business or your creative process?
CS: Carrie and The Catapults is a St. Louis based blues/rock band that consists of some of the area’s best musicians. We frequent blues clubs such as the legendary Beale on Broadway, Broadway Oyster Bar, and 1860’s Soulard. Singing and performing has always been my passion and being that it is usually a nighttime gig, I can stay at home during the day with my kids and pursue our jewelry business simultaneously. Being on stage has influenced our jewelry aesthetic and creative process by giving us the motivation to be a little bolder with our statement pieces. My hope is that it is influential to others because I think everyone should dare to be different!
BB: The vintage pieces of your collection are made from items scoured from estate sales, flea markets and yard sales. Which flea markets do you recommend in the area and what is your shopping strategy?
CS: The best flea markets that we have found are the monthly flea markets such as those in Belleville and Springfield. Going on the hunt is our favorite part of the business. We love meeting new people and digging for treasures. It is 100% true that, “one man’s trash is another man’s treasure.” We experience that on almost every buying trip. We have also developed some good negotiating skills to get our fans the best prices.
BB: How is your business environmentally conscious?
CS: We try to make our jewelry from all reusable parts. We try to reuse ALL parts of a necklace such as the chain, pendant, clasp, and jump rings. We sometimes even take them apart and use the parts on many different pieces.
BB: What is your selling strategy? Why do you keep your prices so low?
CS: We keep our prices so low because we want to be affordable to everyone! Our flash sales on Facebook are a lot of fun and we want everyone to be able to join in. All of the pieces in our monthly Facebook snap sale are under $15. We sell pieces that are over $15 on our Etsy site.
A beautiful vintage piece from CS Gems
BB: What modern trends are you applying when designing your vintage pieces?
CS: We keep up to date on all of the modern trends. We try to take apart vintage pieces and reassemble them into modern ones. Our next snap sale will have many pieces that are in line with jewelry trends for the spring such as bangles, fringe, bright colors, and pendants. When starting our business our slogan was “Make Vintage Modern”. We think this is what sets us apart from other vintage jewelry dealers. We love pairing our pieces with modern trends from area boutiques and showing women how they too can make vintage modern.
BB: What do you hope your children learn from your foray into creative entrepreneurship?
CS: It is our hope that our children learn do what they love and love what they do. We have taken something we really enjoy doing and worked very hard to turn it into a business that has been beneficial to both of our families. We hope that our children are influenced to go out and do the same and never settle into something that they are not passionate about.
Rafael de Cárdenas finds inspiration for his architectural design in music, art, fashion, and modern culture. He continues to innovate with remarkable geometric design, unusual mixes of color and lighting, and a selection of furniture that is both classic and contemporary. His projects include architecture, residential and commercial interiors, temporary spaces (like pop-up shops), furniture, and more. Definitely not a one-note designer, you will be awed by the spaces he transforms. Check out those glorious pink reptile skin chairs. And the building at the bottom wrapped in stripes is ridiculously amazing.
If you appreciate a blend of East/West design, you will adore Leah Singh and her line of home décor and fashion accessories. A graduate of Parsons School of Design in New York City, Leah returned to her roots in India to work with local artisans and rejuvenate their craft. By adopting their age-old techniques, she is able to bring a traditional flair to her modern design and provide a new market for these artisans. She has already made a mark with her vibrant textile collection and sustainable bone accessories. Find out what Leah has to say about her style inspirations, why it’s important to go green in India, and how working with local artisans has transformed her business. Plus she’s a fan of my home state of Rajasthan so I already know she has good taste!
BB: Where do you think your creative side comes from: your mom, dad or both?
LS: From both! Although neither of my parents are artists or designers, there are a lot of creative people in both my mother’s and my father’s families.
BB: Describe your style.
LS: Simple, casual, yet edgy. I tend to wear mostly jeans and solid colors with my standard leather tote. I keep my clothes simple, but I love to accessorize with my jewelry and shoes. It is important to have one interesting detail like a flattering silhouette, an interesting piece of jewelry, or a deep cut back. Sometimes I have experimental days, too – when I wear bright colors and bold prints and cropped tops.
BB: Whose street style do you love?
LS: I like how Charlize Theron and Zoe Saldana dress — effortless and chic. And I love how fun Solange Knowles and Rihanna are.
BB: What is your favorite recent purchase?
LS: My favorite recent purchase is a chunky bone and silver bangle I found at an antique shop in Delhi.
BB: Where in India are you from? If a friend from New York were to visit, where would you take them?
LS: I grew up in New Delhi, but my mother’s side of the family is from the state of Rajasthan, which is located southwest of New Delhi.
If a friend was to visit from New York, I would take them to Rajasthan because I love the desert landscape, the colorful clothes, and the old palaces — most of which have been turned into gorgeous hotels. There is so much history and character in every city and town in Rajasthan.
BB: Raised in India and educated in the West, how do you incorporate both worlds into your design aesthetic?
LS: It happened very naturally. I combined all the things I love about both places and cultures. The techniques (embroidery, printing, weaving) that I use to make my products are traditional Indian craft techniques, and the colors I use are a direct influence of the bright, colorful environment I grew up in. The Western architects I was exposed to while at Parsons inspired the geometric patterns in my designs.
BB: The jewelry line currently available on your website features bone and is named after Kilimanjaro. Do you find much of your inspiration in nature?
LS: In addition to being inspired by architecture, I am inspired by desert landscapes and rock formations.
BB: Tell us about the sustainable bone pieces. Can you describe where the bone comes from and how it is sourced?
LS: The bone for my jewelry is a byproduct of the agricultural industry in India. Wastage is frowned upon in India because people feel that everything can be reused either to earn money or to improve someone’s life. When an animal in the agricultural industry dies (typically buffalo and camel), the farmer sells the skin, meat, and bones — anything that can be reused. In this way, he is able to earn some money, and no part of the animal is wasted. It is the same for buffaloes that are killed for their meat — the butcher sells the skin and bones as well. After the bones are cleaned, the femur (shin bones) of the buffaloes and camels are cut into small tiles so they are ready to use, and are then sold to artisans who use the bones to make a variety of different products (jewelry, furniture, decorative objects, etc). This is an established industry and the artisans who work with bone have direct access to the suppliers of this material.
BB: Why is it important for you to work with sustainable material, particularly in India?
LS: My goal with using this material was to not only rejuvenate the age-old craft of bone carving, but also to use a sustainable material to create my collection.
Being around my sister (a sort of environmentalist), growing up in a country where harming a living being is a sin, and going to Parsons, have exposed me to the environmentally unsustainable practices that most of us follow. This is why I wanted to work with a material that was sustainable, to try and keep my footprint small and light.
It was important for me to understand the life and culture of the people I work with, to build relationships with them, and to be able to communicate with them easily. Being half Indian and having grown up in India, I felt that India is where I could do this. Also, I found that although there are hundreds of different craft techniques in India, the aesthetic and product categories haven’t changed much over the years. This was also the case with bone carving. So I wanted to rejuvenate this craft technique and create something very different than the typical products that are made.
BB: Why is it important for you to work with local artisans? And how do you manage that process of working with them?
LS: I wanted to work with local artisans for the reasons I listed earlier. Also, India has so many different craft techniques, but the ways in which they are used have barely changed over the years. When I travel around India and go shopping, I get so excited by the colors, patterns, and techniques – but the products seem outdated and too ethnic. As a result, the craft techniques start dying out in their native region because no one wants to buy them. The craft is not appreciated or valued, and the artisans have to look for new avenues of income. I didn’t want all these gorgeous techniques to be forgotten and go to waste! I wanted to give some of these crafts a new look, create a new market for them, so that people could enjoy them once again.
The artisans live and work in remote villages, so I do not get to visit them often. We communicate over the phone, mostly in Hindi, and I send them artwork for new developments in the mail. Over time and after having visited the artisans, I learned their capabilities and limitations, so I am able to design and work with them accordingly. I always allow for some flexibility in my designs; sometimes, the artisans add their input and suggest changes on elements such as color, the scale of a pattern, certain shapes, etc. I often don’t get exactly what was in my artwork, but I like their personal additions to my pieces.
BB: What medium are you excited to work with next?
LS: Brass
BB: What advice would you give the next class of Parson’s graduates?
LS: Be flexible! Have plans and goals, but don’t be rigid about them. Things don’t always go as planned, so be open to new experiences and opportunities.
To purchase Leah Singh’s products visit her online shop here. Like her page on Facebook. Follow her journey on Twitter. Or get behind the scenes pics on Instagram.
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